Pests and Disease Management
The most important principle of organic gardening is based upon taking care of the soil’s needs which provides the foundation for a complex ecosystem, including the plants we grow for food.
Maintaining healthy soils with a plentiful store of nutrients and sufficient moisture retention will provide your vegetables their best opportunity to grow healthy and strong.
Any slowing of plant growth due to lack of nutrients, moisture, or sunlight will lower natural immunity and create opportunities for disease or insect pests to establish themselves..
Companion Planting
Heavy feeders like sweet corn and squashes are frequently planted alongside nitrogen fixing legumes such as beans or peas.This offers substantial protection to a soil’s nutrient profile, particularly its ongoing ability to break down and absorb organic soil additives such as dried manure, seaweed, and pea straw.When cabbages, broccoli and related plants are interspersed with rows of onion, they are less prone to caterpillar and other larval infestation.This is principally due to the onion’s stronger scent and its capacity to confuse or deter cabbage moths.Various culinary and medicinal herbs have gained reputations for their insect repellent properties.The complex aromatic oils of garlic, cloves, basil, lavender and sage will discourage aphid and other insects from attacking vulnerable species like citrus, rose, lettuce, and stone fruit.Experienced gardeners will commit themselves to few rules and even fewer certainties with companion planting.Most of us need to experiment with several approaches and will usually discover that success depends upon location, soil condition, and other factors in addition to the combinations themselves.Bearing this in mind, it is good practice to keep detailed records of each attempt so that similar conditions can be repeated whenever a successful outcome is achieved.
Crop Rotation
Keeping pests and diseases at minimal levels in your vegetable garden is to plant your vegetables based around crop rotation.
Crop rotation is about planting groups of similar vegetables together in a different part of the garden each year.
It's important to do this because different crops like different soil conditions.
Sweet corn and pumpkin love a rich organic soil, but the same soil conditions would make carrots and other root crops fork because of the higher nitrogen needed.
A recently discovered factor in the study of soil has concluded that most vegetables, except the brassica family, benefit from mycorrhizal fungi in the soil. These hairlike structures within the soil form a symbiotic relationship with many plants. They attach to plants and their microscopic hyphae can access soil particles to a greater extent than the plant's own roots. They make many of the negative ion nutrients more available to plants. In return, the plant provides the fungi with the sugars from photosynthesis. Brassicas as aforementioned, do not have this relationship and actively repel the reproduction of these mycorrhizal fungi reducing them in the soil. Rotating the beds you grow brassicas in is particularly important for this reason. Whilst the soil in the brasicca bed is not deplete of mycorrhizal fungi altogether, rotation allows the bed to recover for other plants that actively engage with the fungi. Strange, but true.
Pests and diseases tend to affect vegetable groups and will often remain in the soil for years.
By following a rotation system these pests and diseases can't build up in the soil.
The length of a rotation system can vary from 3 to 8 years.
The longer the better. But this can be difficult with the size restrictions of the average backyard.
3 year rotation plan for a small garden in 40 cm pots
Here's a method based on a 4 year rotation. You simply move each crop anti clockwise through a cycle of 4 years.
Crop rotation
Should you wish to go to 5 year cycle , simply split the grouping of root crops and onions ( alliums )- make them a separate bed.
Similarly if you wish to go to 5 , make another bed for brassicas and legumes.
I operate on a 6 bed rotation system as follows:
1. Alliums
2. Legumes
3. Brassicas
4. Roots
5. Cucurbits
6. Solanums
Greens such as lettuce and rocket can be grown anywhere to fill space. They do not need a separate group.
Pests and Diseases
This section will be added to as I build this site.
Aphids
Aphids have peircing sucking mouth parts. On tender shoots and leaves,the feeding can cause the shoots and leaves to become distorted and leaves may pucker.
The aphids suck sap from the plants. As the sap moves through the insect, the aphid removes any necessary nutrients.
The concentrated sap is passed as honeydew (insect fecal matter). A fungus called sooty mold will grow on this honeydew any place the honeydew becomes thick enough.
The sooty mold turns things black and reduces photosynthesis.
Control of Aphids is based on keen observance and regular treatment.
I use an organic spray
This handy solution is a chilli-and-garlic spray that gives plants natural resistance to aphids, flea beetles, caterpillars, cabbage worms and a host of other chewing and sucking insects.
To make the spray, blend:
1 onion, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbsp dried chilli
1 tsp pure soap (not detergent) in 4L of hot water.
After letting the spray sit for a day or two, strain the mixture and apply the liquid to plants using a sprayer. The spray, which repels insects, must be reapplied after rainfall. Avoid standing downwind when spraying a chilli solution.
Wear gloves and goggles.
This spray is effective when introduced early after aphids are observed.
Blossom end rot in tomatoes
Blossom end rot is not a disease; It is a symptom of poor calcium uptake in tomatoes. It usually results from inconsistent watering when tomatoes are establishing their form after fertilisation.The solution is to take care to water your tomato plants consistently either with dripper system or with alternate daily waterings, ensuring that the plants are mulched well to prevent the soil drying out. Fruit formation is affected and very early ripening of fruit is often indicative of this problem.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are the larval stage of butterflies and moths, belonging to the order Lepidoptera. These voracious feeders can cause significant damage to your vegetable garden, leading to defoliation and reduced crop yields.
Identifying caterpillars on plants is relatively easy, as they have a segmented body with three pairs of true legs and several pairs of prolegs. They can often camouflage with the foliage by blending in with green or brown color.
To control caterpillar infestation, you can use various methods. One option is to handpick them and drop them in soapy water. Another option is to use neem oil spray, which can be effective in repelling and killing caterpillars. The caterpillars of Cabbage white Butterfly can be controlled with Dipel spray on at 5 day intervals during the Autumn when white butterflies are seen in the garden.
Identifying caterpillars on plants is relatively easy, as they have a segmented body with three pairs of true legs and several pairs of prolegs. They can often camouflage with the foliage by blending in with green or brown color.
To control caterpillar infestation, you can use various methods. One option is to handpick them and drop them in soapy water. Another option is to use neem oil spray, which can be effective in repelling and killing caterpillars. The caterpillars of Cabbage white Butterfly can be controlled with Dipel spray on at 5 day intervals during the Autumn when white butterflies are seen in the garden.
Chocolate Spot (botrytus fabae) in Broad Beans
A fungal disease which attacks Broad Beans and looks like the leaves have been dusted with chocolate powder. The stems may also be affected. It is favoured by acidic growing conditions, lush growth and damp spring weather. Winter-sown crops are more susceptible. The crop will be reduced and the plants may die if the infection is severe. The beans are still edible, but the pods may be discoloured.Affected plants should be burnt at the end of cropping. Space seed or plants well apart when planting and do not use large amounts of nitrogenous fertilizers. Rotate beds each year to prevent the spread of this disease.
Downy Mildew in grapevines
Grapevine downy mildew is a potentially devastating disease caused by the fungus Plasmopara viticola. This fungus can infect all green parts of the vine, although the symptoms are usually observed on leaves and bunches.Specific wetness (rainfall or irrigation) and temperature conditions are required for downy mildew infection andspread. In vineyards, or years, where these conditions do not occur, control of downy mildew is not required. Under favorable conditions however, uncontrolled downy mildew develops very rapidly and can cause defoliation and total crop loss.Primary infection - the beginningDowny mildew overwinters as tough spore-bearing bodies in old leaf material on the vineyard floor and in the topsoil.Primary infection occurs when these bodies are wet and release spores which are splashed onto the vine foliage where they germinate. The conditions required for this are:• 10mm or more of rainfall and/or overhead irrigation together with a temperature of 10oC or more, over a24 hour period (commonly referred to as 10:10:24conditions); and• rain or irrigation towards the end of that 24 hour period, followed by several hours of leaf wetness.The symptoms of downy mildew primary infection are small yellowish oilspots which grow rapidly on newfoliage. Oilspots are red on some varieties. Secondary infection - the spreadThe disease spreads through secondary infections on warm, wet nights, when the temperature is 13oC or more,and several hours of leaf wetness occur around dawn.Under these conditions the fungus produces white downy patches of spores on the underside of the oilspots. These spores can then spread the disease very rapidly.Fungicide ControlThe only fungicides effective against downy mildew and currently allowable under organic standards are based on copper hydroxide and copper sulphate. These sprays only protect vines against new downy mildew infections. They do not eradicate existing infections and are not systemic.For these reasons, spray coverage must be very thorough to protect vines.You should ensure your vines have a protective cover of allowable copper fungicide - beforeeach rainfall and/or irrigation event that is likely to create suitable conditions for infection. To achieve this, you need to make good use of weather forecast services .
Early Blight in Tomatoes
Early Blight is a soil born fungal disease that attacks tomatoes from the spores remaining in the soil. Whilst early applied copper based sprays and removal of infected leaves assist in its control the following tips are the most useful:
Practice crop rotation by planting tomatoes and related vegetables in a different spot in the garden every year. Do not plant tomatoes and potatoes next to each other since they both are susceptible to early and late blight.
Allow adequate spacing between plants.
Water only at the base of the plant and early in the day. Long periods of moisture on foliage encourage blight.
Use a tomato support system and remove suckers to increase air movement through the plant and to reduce moisture on the foliage. A support system also improves fruit quality and helps prevent root rot.
Mulch to keep plants evenly moist and to reduce watering, weeding, cultivation and blossom end rot.
Remove the bottom branches of the tomato plant, especially if they come in contact with the soil. Cut the bottom branches with a pair of scissors or garden shears. Trim the branches right at the plant stem, but do not cut into the stem.
Monitor the leaves, especially lower ones, for the first symptoms of tomato early blight and Septoria leaf spot. Remove infected leaves and begin application of acopper based fungicide. Tomato late blight can strike suddenly, often attacking the upper stems and foliage first, and then rapidly cause fruit infection. New, more aggressive fungus strains now exist, so early warning and prevention is critical.
Remove all plant debris from the garden in the Autumn. Many tomato blight organisms overwinter on dried plant tissues.
Fusarium Wilt
Solanaceous crop plants (tomato, potato, pepper, and egg- plant) may be infected at any age by the fungi that cause Fusarium wilt and Verticillium wilt.
The wilt organisms usually enter the plant through young roots and then grow into and up the water conducting vessels of the roots and stem.
As the vessels are plugged and collapse, the water supply to the leaves is blocked.
With a limited water supply, leaves begin to wilt on sunny days and recover at night.
Wilting may first appear in the top of the plant or in the lower leaves.
The process may continue until the entire plant is wilted, stunted, or dead.
Tomato and potato plants may recover somewhat but are usually weak, unthrifty, and produce fruit of low quality.
Peppers typically collapse rapidly and die.
Fusarium and Verticillium wilts are rarely significant in field grown tomatoes due to the widespread incorporation in tomato cultivars of genes for resistance to the pathogen.
However, the resurgent interest in planting "heirloom" tomato varieties which do not carry resistance genes has resulted in increased incidence of Fusarium and Verticillium wilts.
With fusarium wilt the whole plant wilts, rotted at the base of the stem and stems may be cracked.
In mild cases the plant may just grow slowly or be pale and stunted.
Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne fungus.
Try covering the soil before you plant out tomatoes with clear plastic sheeting for three weeks to kill off spores in the soil.
Look for tomato seedlings that say they are resistant to fusarium wilt.
Some of the old fashioned varieties are very susceptible to it.
The wilt organisms usually enter the plant through young roots and then grow into and up the water conducting vessels of the roots and stem.
As the vessels are plugged and collapse, the water supply to the leaves is blocked.
With a limited water supply, leaves begin to wilt on sunny days and recover at night.
Wilting may first appear in the top of the plant or in the lower leaves.
The process may continue until the entire plant is wilted, stunted, or dead.
Tomato and potato plants may recover somewhat but are usually weak, unthrifty, and produce fruit of low quality.
Peppers typically collapse rapidly and die.
Fusarium and Verticillium wilts are rarely significant in field grown tomatoes due to the widespread incorporation in tomato cultivars of genes for resistance to the pathogen.
However, the resurgent interest in planting "heirloom" tomato varieties which do not carry resistance genes has resulted in increased incidence of Fusarium and Verticillium wilts.
With fusarium wilt the whole plant wilts, rotted at the base of the stem and stems may be cracked.
In mild cases the plant may just grow slowly or be pale and stunted.
Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne fungus.
Try covering the soil before you plant out tomatoes with clear plastic sheeting for three weeks to kill off spores in the soil.
Look for tomato seedlings that say they are resistant to fusarium wilt.
Some of the old fashioned varieties are very susceptible to it.
Grapevine Caterpillar
This caterpillar belongs to the Grapevine moth.It can cause severe damage to vine canopies if number are large, resulting in damage to the fruit quality through lack of sugar production.
Dipel is an effective control if sprayed in the cool of the evening.
Dipel contains Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt for short, it is highly effective and selective against most species of caterpillars including lawn armyworm syn.
lawn grub, cotton bollworm, cabbage moth, cabbage white butterfly, green looper, lightbrown apple moth, pear looper, vine moth, soybean looper and tobacco looper.
This biological control is a bacterial stomach poison for all caterpillars, which is mixed with water and sprayed onto foliage.
It must be ingested by the actively feeding caterpillar, which dies 3-5 days later.
It is totally safe to beneficial insects, bees, and mammals. Bt is broken down by sunlight within a few days, so repeated applications may be necessary.
Nematode affected parsnips
Nematodes
Nematodes are also known as 'Eel Worms' and they're colourless, microscopic worm-like animals. Scientists have described about 20,000 species and some specialists estimate there could be over a million. Most of these are harmless to plants, and some are even beneficial. But the Root Knot Nematode is a plant parasite.
Recognising you have a problem with nematodes is not always easy as they work undercover or, more specifically, underground. When young nematodes burrow into plant roots their feeding stimulates the production of tumour like growths and these inhibit the plant's ability to take up water and nutrients. The result is a weak plant, reduced growth and productivity, and plants also become susceptible to secondary fungal infections and to sudden wilting.
Plants Affected:
Many plant species are affected by this particular nematode, but it mostly causes damage to the following plants: The solanaceae family, which includes potatoes, eggplant, capsicum, chilli and tomatoes. The legume family, peas & beans, are not susceptible to nematodes.
Nematodes can be controlled by sowing Chinese Mustard (Brassica juncea) as a green manure. When crops have been cleared broadcast mustard seed over the surface, rake it in, water it, grow it to 45 centimetres high and then dig it in. If the soil is moist, the mustard will decompose and release chemicals known as 'isothiocyanates.' This is the chemical that gives mustard its hot flavour and it's that chemical that fumigates the soil and helps control nematodes. as a green manure crop prior to using the space for a root crop such as parsnips. Dig the mustard into the soil before it seeds and keep moist. Nematodes are microscopic, thread-like worms that can cause significant damage to your plants. They feed on the roots, stem, and leaves, leading to stunted growth, wilting, and discoloration of the foliage.
Look for signs of damage such as wilting or discolored foliage, stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and small galls or swellings on the roots. To confirm nematode infestation, send a sample to a laboratory for testing.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew ( Uncinular necator ) is a fungal disease found on grapevines. It requires seasonal management as its presence and subsequent development in favourable climatic conditions can severely compromise grapevine canopy and fruit quality thus compromising wine quality severely. For an explanation of the disease and its effective organic control see this article.
I recommend regular 10 day interval spraying of the canopy with equal parts of Wettable Sulphur and Copper Oxychloride at the rate of 2gms each per litre of water. Do not use wetting agaents with this spray due to the risk of leaf damage in warm/hot weather. After verasion, I use Potassium Bicarbonate (Ecocarb) instead of sulphur due to high sulphur levels increasing the risk of sulphur dioxide in the wine when it is made. Copper oxychloride is no longer mixed in the spray during this period.
I recommend regular 10 day interval spraying of the canopy with equal parts of Wettable Sulphur and Copper Oxychloride at the rate of 2gms each per litre of water. Do not use wetting agaents with this spray due to the risk of leaf damage in warm/hot weather. After verasion, I use Potassium Bicarbonate (Ecocarb) instead of sulphur due to high sulphur levels increasing the risk of sulphur dioxide in the wine when it is made. Copper oxychloride is no longer mixed in the spray during this period.
Slugs
Slugs, belonging to the class Gastropoda, are soft-bodied creatures with a slimy excretion. Measuring between one to two inches, they’ve a distinct body shape with a muscular foot, tentacles, and a slimy mantle.
These nocturnal pests feed on plant material, causing damage to leaves, stems, and fruits. They chew irregularly shaped holes in foliage, leaving behind slimy trails of excretion that can be unappealing.
To identify slugs on plants, look for slimy trails and chewed edges on leaves, especially during the night when they’re most active. To get rid of slugs, handpick them at night using a flashlight or headlamp and place them in a container of soapy water.
Insecticidal soap can be used to suffocate and disrupt the cell membranes of pests, or beneficial nematodes can be applied to kill them naturally. Setting up beer traps or boards can attract and capture slugs as well.
Snails
Snails are small mollusks with a shell and a soft body. They have an elongated foot for movement and two sets of tentacles for sensing. These pests feed on vegetables, fruits, and organic matter, causing significant damage to your plants.
Snails chew on leaves, stems, and fruits, leaving behind ragged edges and irregularly shaped holes. They are most active during wet weather and reproduce quickly, posing a persistent threat to plant health.
To identify snails on your plants, look for slime trails and irregular holes in leaves. Handpick snails at night using a flashlight and place them in soapy water to kill them.
You can also use insecticidal soap or beneficial nematodes to control snail populations. Setting up beer traps or using row covers can be effective in preventing snails from damaging your vegetable plants
Snails chew on leaves, stems, and fruits, leaving behind ragged edges and irregularly shaped holes. They are most active during wet weather and reproduce quickly, posing a persistent threat to plant health.
To identify snails on your plants, look for slime trails and irregular holes in leaves. Handpick snails at night using a flashlight and place them in soapy water to kill them.
You can also use insecticidal soap or beneficial nematodes to control snail populations. Setting up beer traps or using row covers can be effective in preventing snails from damaging your vegetable plants
About us
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod temdidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud ellamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequutrure dolor inenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulariateur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia. Sed ut pee omnnatuerror sit voluptatem accusantium doloremque.
White Flies
Whiteflies are small, winged insects that infest a wide range of plants and can cause significant damage if left untreated. These tiny pests measure about 1-2mm in length and have a powdery white appearance, hence their name. They will fly in a swarm when disturbed.
Whiteflies suck sap from plant leaves, causing wilting and yellowing. If not controlled, infestations can lead to stunted growth and even plant death. They have a fast reproductive cycle, enabling their populations to proliferate and become severe. Whiteflies are also known for their ability to transmit plant viruses, posing a significant threat to agricultural crops.
Whiteflies are hard to identify because they fly around, but they have white wings that look powdery. Taking immediate action and using insecticidal soap or neem oil can effectively eliminate whiteflies. How to get rid of whiteflies
Insecticidal Soap: is a solution that effectively eliminates whiteflies by suffocating them and disrupting their cell membranes. It is safe to use on most plants and can be directly applied to the affected areas.Neem oil: is effective in eliminating whiteflies as it impacts their feeding, growth, and reproduction. For optimal results, it is recommended to apply the product as a spray and reapply it every 7-14 days.
Regularly monitoring plants and maintaining a healthy garden ecosystem can help prevent infestations.
Whiteflies suck sap from plant leaves, causing wilting and yellowing. If not controlled, infestations can lead to stunted growth and even plant death. They have a fast reproductive cycle, enabling their populations to proliferate and become severe. Whiteflies are also known for their ability to transmit plant viruses, posing a significant threat to agricultural crops.
Whiteflies are hard to identify because they fly around, but they have white wings that look powdery. Taking immediate action and using insecticidal soap or neem oil can effectively eliminate whiteflies. How to get rid of whiteflies
Insecticidal Soap: is a solution that effectively eliminates whiteflies by suffocating them and disrupting their cell membranes. It is safe to use on most plants and can be directly applied to the affected areas.Neem oil: is effective in eliminating whiteflies as it impacts their feeding, growth, and reproduction. For optimal results, it is recommended to apply the product as a spray and reapply it every 7-14 days.
Regularly monitoring plants and maintaining a healthy garden ecosystem can help prevent infestations.
Rhubarb Leaf Spot
.JPG)
Rhubarb leaf spot is a common fungal disease caused by the fungi Mycosphaerella pontederiae and Ramularia rhei. It primarily affects the leaves of the rhubarb plant.Symptoms: Infected leaves develop small reddish-brown spots that gradually enlarge over time. These spots may have a grayish center and can coalesce to form larger irregular lesions. Severe infections can cause defoliation and weaken the plant.
Treatment:
To manage leaf spot, remove and destroy infected leaves as soon as symptoms appear. Avoid overhead watering, as wet foliage provides favorable conditions for fungal growth.
Scales
Scales are small pests that can cause significant damage to your garden. They suck sap from plants, causing leaves to yellow and wilt. Identifying scales is crucial for effective treatment.
In this article, you will learn how to spot scales on your plants and discover various methods to control and prevent their infestation.What are scales?
Scales are small, sap-sucking insects that attach themselves to the stems, leaves, and fruits of plants. They appear as tiny bumps or scales and can range in color from brown to white.
The damage caused by scales includes yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and premature leaf drop. If left untreated, scales can weaken and even kill your plants.What damage do scales cause on plants?
Scales cause damage to plants by sucking sap out of the leaves, stems, and fruits. This causes yellowing of leaves, stunted growth, and premature leaf drop. In severe cases, scales can weaken or even kill a plant if left untreated
In this article, you will learn how to spot scales on your plants and discover various methods to control and prevent their infestation.What are scales?
Scales are small, sap-sucking insects that attach themselves to the stems, leaves, and fruits of plants. They appear as tiny bumps or scales and can range in color from brown to white.
The damage caused by scales includes yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and premature leaf drop. If left untreated, scales can weaken and even kill your plants.What damage do scales cause on plants?
Scales cause damage to plants by sucking sap out of the leaves, stems, and fruits. This causes yellowing of leaves, stunted growth, and premature leaf drop. In severe cases, scales can weaken or even kill a plant if left untreated
White Cabbage Butterfly
Organic control for Cabbage White Butterfly and Cabbage Moth can be achieved with 10 daily interval sprayings of Dipel, a bacterial product by Yates that infects the lavae of the butterflies and moths ,making them unable to feed. The product is Australian Certified Organic - meets the strict production guidelines and is perfect for organic gardening. It is obtainable at most nurseries. This product is expensive and does not store well after mixing, so make a 1 gram spoon with a piece of plastic hose glued onto a spoon handle and use this to measure enough powder for 1 litre of spray after opening the 10gm packets within the Natures's Way pack. This way a pack should last a few seasons.